Lucie Mé · Concerns
Ageing Hands
Thinning skin, sun spots, and veins that stand out more than they used to.
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What causes it
What makes hands look older?
You see them in a photograph, or on the steering wheel in bright sun, and they look older than you feel.
Three separate changes land on the backs of the hands, and people notice them in a particular order: the spots first, the veins second, the texture of the skin last.
Sun damage produces the spots. The backs of the hands are exposed to ultraviolet light every day of the year, including through a car's side window, and they are skipped when sunscreen is applied. Flat brown patches appear across the knuckles and the back of the hand, and photoageing also coarsens the surface and breaks down the collagen beneath it.
Volume loss makes the veins and tendons stand out. A layer of fat sits between the skin and the structures underneath, and as it thins, the veins and the tendons that were always there become visible through the skin. Nothing has grown; the padding over it has gone. This is why hands can look bony and busy while the rest of the body has not changed.
Skin thinning does the rest. Collagen and elastin decline, the skin becomes finer and loses its spring, and it crinkles when pinched and stays creased for a moment after. Fewer oil glands here than on the face means the surface dries out faster, and dry skin shows every crinkle more sharply.
Hands also take more insult than any other skin. Water, detergent, cleaning products, cold air, gardening and work all strip the barrier, and skin repairing that damage repeatedly ages faster than skin that is left alone.
Why it shows on some hands more
Why do some hands show their age sooner?
Cumulative sun exposure is the biggest divider, and driving is the part people miss. Years with one hand on the wheel and the other on the gearstick put one hand in direct light more than the other, which is visible on some pairs of hands.
Fair skin that burns easily develops brown patches sooner and more plainly. Thin skin to begin with means less to lose before the veins show.
Work history explains a great deal. Decades of wet work, detergents, solvents or cold weather damage the barrier repeatedly, and skin that is always repairing itself thins faster. Gardening without gloves adds sun and abrasion at once.
Smoking restricts the small vessels feeding the skin and degrades elastin.
Weight and body fat matter here more than on the face, because the padding on the back of the hand is thin to begin with. People who are lean, and people who have lost weight, show tendons and veins sooner. Age thins the pad regardless.
Hormonal change after menopause reduces collagen production, which shows faster on an area with little support.
Genetics sets skin thickness, how prominent the veins were to begin with and how readily the pigment cells respond to light. Some people have visible veins at thirty with nothing wrong at all.
What you can do
What can I do at home?
Sunscreen on the backs of the hands, reapplied after washing them, is the habit that does most, and the one almost nobody keeps. Every hand wash removes it, which is why a bottle kept by the sink works better than good intentions; the American Academy of Dermatology sets out how much to use and how often. Driving gloves in summer sound fussy and work.
Then stop the barrier damage. Gloves for washing up, cleaning and gardening, a hand cream applied after every wash rather than once a day, and lukewarm rather than hot water. The American Academy of Dermatology's advice for dry skin applies to hands more than to anywhere else.
A richer cream or an ointment at night, under cotton gloves, holds water in while the skin repairs.
On actives, a topical retinoid builds collagen and fades surface pigment over months, and the back of the hand tolerates it reasonably well. Vitamin C supports collagen and defends against ultraviolet damage. Products aimed at pigment work on the spots slowly.
What does nothing: anything sold to remove veins from the surface, since the veins are under the skin rather than in it, and no cream replaces the lost padding over them. Lemon juice does not fade a sun spot; it irritates skin that is already thin.
Talk to us
Would you like to talk to a Lucie Mé specialist about your hands?
A complimentary consultation at Yorkville or Fairview Mall.
Treatment
How are ageing hands treated?
The spots are the most treatable part. IPL photofacial breaks up sun pigment with light absorbed by melanin, and the backs of the hands respond to it as the face does, across a course rather than in one session. Suitability depends on your skin tone, and recent sun exposure changes the answer. A chemical peel lifts surface pigment and improves the coarsened surface, at a strength matched to skin this thin.
The skin itself improves with collagen treatment. Microneedling, and Intensif RF microneedling, build collagen and increase the thickness and quality of the skin over a course, which softens crinkling. MesoGold is mesotherapy with a 24k gold-plated device, and the backs of the hands are one of the areas it is used on; the serum channelled into the skin can include hyaluronic acid, vitamin-rich preparations and peptides. Skin boosters place micro-injections of hyaluronic acid into the skin, raising its water-holding capacity and improving skin quality.
What makes the veins and tendons stand out is the loss of the fat layer over them, so the treatment category that addresses it is volume replacement rather than anything aimed at the skin. Whether that suits your hands, and what it would involve, is a conversation to have at the consultation rather than something to decide from a page.
Alongside treatment
Which products help ageing hands?
UV Daily SPF 40, EltaMD
Daily broad-spectrum protection for the backs of the hands, reapplied after washing. The most useful product here, and it only works if it goes back on after every wash.
Retinol 0.3%, Vivier
Builds collagen and fades surface pigment over months. The lower strength is the sensible start on skin this thin.
Lytera 2.0 Pigment Brightening Serum, SkinMedica
Aimed at the brown patches rather than the texture. Slow, and it works alongside sun protection rather than instead of it.
Intensive Moisture Balance, Dermalogica
A richer moisturiser for hands stripped by washing, detergent and cold air. Applied after every wash, not once a day.
Lucie Mé
Restore. Rejuvenate. Enhance.
At Lucie Mé we specialise in the most advanced non-surgical cosmetic and body contouring treatments, delivered by medically trained professionals. Two Toronto clinics: Yorkville at Holt Renfrew Centre, and Fairview Mall in North York. Established 2010. Complimentary consultations.
Treatment at Lucie Mé
How to treat ageing hands at Lucie Mé in Toronto
Lucie Mé, established 2010, treats the hands at both Toronto clinics. IPL photofacial breaks up sun pigment on the backs of the hands, and a chemical peel lifts surface pigment at a strength matched to thin skin. Microneedling and Intensif build collagen and improve skin thickness. MesoGold treats the backs of the hands through a gold-plated mesotherapy device, and skin boosters place hyaluronic acid into the skin itself.
The Yorkville clinic at Holt Renfrew Centre serves downtown Toronto, Bloor-Yorkville, Rosedale, The Annex and the central neighbourhoods. The Fairview Mall clinic in North York serves North York, Thornhill, Vaughan, Markham, Richmond Hill and the northern suburbs. Local IPL pages are up for both: Yorkville and North York.
Consultations are complimentary at both clinics. Book with whichever is closer.
Find us
Two Toronto clinics
Lucie Mé Yorkville
50 Bloor Street West, Unit C10, Holt Renfrew Centre, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L8
Lucie Mé Fairview Mall (North York)
CF Fairview Mall, 1800 Sheppard Avenue East, Toronto, Ontario, M2J 5A7
Common questions
Questions about ageing hands
Can the brown spots on my hands be removed?
They can be broken up and faded, and IPL photofacial is the treatment that does it most directly on the backs of the hands. The light is absorbed by the brown of the pigment, which breaks it up so the skin clears it over the days that follow; the spots darken first and then flake away, and a course of sessions does more than a single appointment. A chemical peel is the alternative for surface pigment, at a strength chosen for skin this thin, and it improves the coarsened surface at the same time. Whether IPL suits you depends on your skin tone, because in darker skin the melanin spread through the surrounding skin absorbs the energy too and the risk shifts from clearing pigment to causing it. Recent sun exposure changes the answer as well, so treatment straight after a summer outdoors is not sensible. What decides whether the result holds is what happens afterwards: the pigment cells have not changed, so hands that go back into daily sun without protection will produce new spots. Sunscreen reapplied after hand washing is the whole maintenance plan, and it is cheaper than repeating the course. A practitioner looking at your hands can also tell a sun spot from a lesion that needs a different kind of attention, so have it checked rather than assumed.
Why do the veins on my hands stand out so much now?
Because the layer of fat that used to sit over them has thinned, not because the veins have changed. The back of the hand has a thin pad of fat between the skin and the tendons and veins underneath, and as that pad thins with age the structures below it become visible through the skin. Weight loss does the same thing faster, and people who are naturally lean see it earlier. Skin thinning adds to the effect, since finer skin is more transparent and shows what is beneath it more clearly. Nothing applied to the surface replaces lost padding, which is why creams sold on that promise do not work, and the veins are below the skin rather than in it, so pigment treatments and resurfacing do not touch them either. The treatment category that addresses this is volume replacement, which is a different conversation from anything aimed at the skin, and whether it suits your hands is something to assess in person rather than decide from a description. Prominent veins can also be entirely normal for your build at any age. If they appeared suddenly rather than gradually, or only on one side, mention it to a doctor rather than treating it as cosmetic.
Does the skin on my hands respond to treatment the way my face does?
It responds more slowly and it is treated more carefully, for two reasons. The skin on the back of the hand is thin, has little fat beneath it and fewer oil glands than facial skin, so it recovers more slowly from anything that disturbs it, and the strength or intensity that a face tolerates can leave hands inflamed. The second reason is that hands keep working while they heal: washing, detergent, cold air and sun all continue, which makes aftercare harder to keep to than it is on a face. Treatment is therefore planned at lower intensity across more sessions, and collagen-building treatments show their result over months rather than weeks. Pigment responds best and fastest. Texture and crinkling improve over a course. Volume loss needs a different approach altogether. The realistic target is hands that look better rather than hands that match a photograph from twenty years ago, so settle that before you start and the result gets judged against something honest. Keeping the sunscreen and the hand cream going is what holds any of it, and on hands that part takes more discipline than the treatment does. Gloves for washing up and cleaning during a course protect the skin while it is recovering, which is the other half of the aftercare.
What does treatment for ageing hands cost in Toronto?
Cost depends on which of the three problems you are treating and how many sessions it takes, so a figure quoted before an assessment would be a guess. IPL photofacial is priced by the area and the session, and the backs of both hands are a small area compared with a face, treated across a course. Chemical peels are priced by session and strength. Microneedling and Intensif are priced by session and by course, because collagen builds across a series. MesoGold is priced per treatment, and skin boosters by the product used. Someone whose complaint is a scatter of brown spots on reasonable skin is looking at the simplest and cheapest plan of the three, and it changes the most for the least. Volume replacement is priced separately and assessed separately. The complimentary consultation is where the problems get separated and the plan and cost are set out for your own hands. Products are a separate cost, and on hands they matter more than elsewhere, since sunscreen reapplied after washing is what stops new pigment arriving and undoing what you paid for. Treating the face and the hands at the same appointment is possible as well, and the hands are the smaller area of the two.
Should I treat my hands if my face has been treated?
Many people ask this the other way round, having noticed that their hands tell a different story from their face. There is a straightforward reason for the mismatch: the face has had sunscreen, moisturiser, actives and sometimes treatment for years, while the hands have had none of it and the same daily sun. Treating them narrows the gap, and the part that narrows it fastest is the pigment, because that is what the eye reads first. Skin texture takes a course and improves gradually. Volume loss is a separate decision. Whether to treat them depends on what you notice and when; people who are photographed with their hands visible, or who meet clients across a desk, care more than people who do not. The protection matters regardless of treatment, because the damage is cumulative and the total stops rising the day you start covering the backs of your hands. A consultation is a reasonable way to find out what is treatable on your hands without committing to anything, and it costs nothing at either clinic. Hands are also the area where protection alone changes the next ten years, so come in even if you decide to treat nothing now. Hand skin also shows what sunscreen has and has not been doing over the years, which makes it a straightforward place to start.
Get started
Book a complimentary consultation for your hands
Both Lucie Mé clinics are in Toronto, in Yorkville and at Fairview Mall.