Lucie Mé · Concerns

How to Get Rid of Dark Circles Under Eyes

Pigment, thin skin and a hollow look much the same in the mirror, and each one answers to something different.

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What causes dark circles under the eyes?

What causes it

What causes dark circles under the eyes?

Concealer goes on in the morning, and by the middle of the afternoon the darkness is showing through again. People ask whether you are tired on days when you slept well.

Dark circles are an appearance rather than one condition, and three separate things make the skin under the eye look dark. Melanin in the skin of the lower eyelid gives a brown colour. Blood vessels and the muscle that closes the eye give a blue or grey colour where the skin over them is thin. A hollow at the tear trough gives a shadow, which is darkness with no colour in the skin at all. Dermatology reviews sort dark circles the same way, as pigmented, vascular and structural, with a mixed group for a face carrying more than one of them.

Start with pigment. DermNet puts it plainly: pigmentation under the eyes is associated with dermal deposition of melanin, and that deposit is often post-inflammatory, following sun exposure, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, or rubbing and scratching the eyes. Some of it is inherited, and DermNet lists a genetic predisposition and non-white ethnic background among the things that make dark circles more likely. Melanin keeps its colour whatever the light is doing and whatever the rest of your week has been like.

Thin skin is a different problem, and it is less about colour arriving than about colour showing. The skin of the eyelid and the skin under the eye are extremely thin, often less than a millimetre, with almost no fat in between, so the blood vessels and the orbicularis oculi muscle show through to the surface. Thin translucent skin comes with age and with genetics. Nothing has darkened. What has changed is how much of the anatomy reaches the surface.

A hollow produces darkness of a third kind. The tear trough is the groove that runs from the inner corner of the eye along the bony rim of the socket. With age the fat under the eye thins, the membrane holding it loosens, the rim itself drifts down and back, the bone of the upper jaw resorbs and the opening of the socket widens. A groove deep enough to catch the light reads as a dark half-moon, and the skin inside the groove is the same colour as the skin on your cheek.

A face can carry two of the three, or all three, and the proportions change what will help. Someone whose circles are nine-tenths pigment and someone whose circles are nine-tenths shadow see the same thing in a mirror and need different appointments.

Two checks at home get you most of the way. For the first, pull the skin of the lower eyelid gently sideways in daylight: pigment holds its colour, a shadow softens or disappears as the groove flattens out, and a colour that turns more purple as you stretch points to thin skin and the vessels under it. For the second, tilt your chin up and down facing a window, because a shadow depends on the direction of the light and changes as that angle changes, while pigment sits there at every angle.

Do both on a day when you are rested. Tiredness, puffy eyelids and dehydration all make a shadow more noticeable, so a tired face makes the shadow look like more of the problem than it is.

Why it shows when it does

Why do dark circles show up earlier on some faces?

There is no age at which dark circles arrive. What varies is how much pigment the eyelid skin carries, how thin that skin is, and how much volume still sits along the rim of the eye socket.

Inheritance comes first, and it explains the children who sleep soundly and still have shadows. DermNet names a genetic predisposition, and names thin translucent skin as something seen with genetic factors as well as with age.

Allergy is the cause most often missed. Hay fever can leave the eyelids puffy, and a puffy lower lid casts a shadow of its own. Dermatitis around the eye and the rubbing that goes with an itch leave post-inflammatory pigment behind afterwards. Circles that arrive every spring and lift when the pollen drops are usually this, and treating the allergy treats the circles.

Sleep changes less than people assume, and what it changes is real. In a 2013 study, photographs of ten people taken after a normal night and again after five hours of sleep followed by 31 hours awake were rated by 40 observers, who saw darker circles under the eyes and paler skin on the sleep-deprived faces. Pale skin lets the vessels underneath read more strongly, and fluid sits differently after a short night. Neither effect removes melanin from the skin or puts volume back along the rim, so sleep moves the fluid and the vessels and leaves the other two causes where they were.

Sun drives melanin production, and the eyelid is the part of the face most often missed with sunscreen. The American Academy of Dermatology asks for lenses that offer ultraviolet protection when you buy sunglasses, and says large-framed or wraparound sunglasses protect more skin than aviators do.

Smoking is on this list for the volume rather than the colour: DermNet associates loss of fatty tissue in the eyelid and around the eye with ageing, genetic factors and smoking.

Then there is time. The fat under the eye thins, the lower rim of the socket recedes, the dermis loses thickness, and a face with no circles at thirty can show a clear tear trough shadow at fifty with nothing else about the face having changed. Fat that pushes forward instead of thinning is a separate matter: bags of fat come from the orbital fat pads protruding, which follows ageing or runs in a family, and they sit on top of whichever colour the skin already had.

What can I do at home?

What you can do

What can I do at home?

Home care works on colour and on the quality of the skin. It does not fill a hollow, because nothing applied to the surface reaches the fat and bone that make the shadow, so the honest first step is working out which of the three you are dealing with before you spend anything.

Sun protection does the most for pigment, since ultraviolet light keeps making the melanin you are trying to clear. The American Academy of Dermatology's guidance is a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher, water resistant, at least a teaspoon for the face, reapplied every two hours. Sunglasses with ultraviolet protection cover the eyelid at the same time, and the label is what tells you, because a dark lens is not necessarily a protective one.

For the fluid and vessel half, DermNet's own list is short: adequate sleep, stopping smoking, sleeping with extra pillows to raise the head and reduce eyelid swelling, and massaging temporary swelling while holding a cold compress on it. Treating an allergy properly, with a doctor where it keeps coming back, takes away the rubbing and the puffiness together.

On products, a topical retinoid has the clearest basis for pigment: retinoids inhibit melanosome transfer and help disperse melanin, which is why they are used for post-inflammatory pigmentation, and DermNet says improvement may take 12 weeks or longer. The same page notes they can irritate skin applied close to the eyes, so a low strength and a small amount matter here more than anywhere else on the face. Vitamin C is a cofactor for collagen synthesis and an antioxidant, and niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer as well.

Caffeine is in almost every eye product sold for this, and one small study is most of the evidence. A review of eye cream ingredients in the International Journal of Women's Dermatology found that a 3% caffeine pad used for a month reduced periorbital pigmentation in a study of 11 healthy women, and reported that the lack of clinical trials aimed specifically at eye creams and periorbital skin is a notable limitation of the whole field. Judge an eye cream on the skin after months rather than after weeks.

For the days when you want it gone now rather than in three months, DermNet suggests cosmetic camouflage with light-reflecting concealers in yellow or gold shades, which answers a blue-grey tone better than a skin-tone concealer does.

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A complimentary consultation at Yorkville or Fairview Mall.

Treatment

How are dark circles treated?

Treatment follows the cause, and treating the wrong one is the usual reason people have spent money on this without a result.

A hollow is answered by replacing the volume. Hyaluronic acid filler from the Juvéderm family, placed deep and as close as possible to the bone of the lower rim of the socket, lifts the floor of the tear trough so there is less of a groove for light to fall into. The change is visible the same day and settles over the following weeks. Filler cannot change the colour of the skin itself, so a face carrying pigment as well as a hollow needs both of them treated.

Thin skin that lets the vessels read through is a skin quality problem, and the aim is thicker, better-conditioned skin. PRP uses the platelets from a sample of your own blood to stimulate collagen and tissue repair, and three sessions four to six weeks apart is typical for skin. Microneedling and Intensif RF microneedling create controlled micro-injury that prompts the skin to build collagen over the weeks that follow, and PRP is often done in the same session as microneedling so the platelets reach the channels the needles make. Exosome therapy aims at the same thing. None of these change anything in a week; they build across a course.

Pigment in the skin answers to acids and to retinoids. A medical-grade chemical peel works on the surface layers where much of the melanin sits, and the strength and the acid are matched to your skin, which is a judgement made by looking at the skin rather than from a description of it. A home retinoid carries on the same work between appointments.

Where the darkness comes with a lower-lid fat pad that bulges forward, the treatment is eyelid surgery, and Lucie Mé does not do surgery. Large, pronounced bags are hard to correct without it, and filler put into a face that has them can read as more swelling rather than less.

Alongside treatment

Can creams help dark circles?

Can creams help dark circles?

Dark circle eye cream, Vivier

Formulated with vitamin K and shea butter to minimise dark circles, reduce puffiness and soften the look of crow's feet. It works on the colour and the condition of the skin, which is the part of the problem a cream can reach.

Can creams help dark circles?

GrenzCine eye growth factor cream, Vivier

Growth factors with vitamin C, aimed at the thickness and firmness of the eyelid skin. Thicker skin lets less of the muscle and vessels underneath show through, so this suits a blue-grey tone rather than a brown one.

Can creams help dark circles?

TNS eye repair, SkinMedica

A growth factor eye treatment for the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dark circles. Used morning and night, and judged after three months rather than three weeks.

Can creams help dark circles?

A.G.E. Advanced Eye, SkinCeuticals

Contains caffeine and optical diffusers alongside its anti-ageing actives. The diffusers scatter light while you are wearing it and the caffeine narrows small vessels, so part of what you see lasts only as long as the cream is on.

Can creams help dark circles?

Growth Factor Eye Serum, ZO Skinhealth

A growth factor serum with a cooling applicator, for expression lines, creasing and the look of hollowness. The cooling and the plumping are brief; the skin quality is what to watch over months.

Can creams help dark circles?

UV Daily SPF 40, EltaMD

Daily broad-spectrum sun protection for the face. Ultraviolet light keeps replacing the pigment any other treatment here is clearing, so wearing this is what holds the result.

Lucie Mé

Restore. Rejuvenate. Enhance.

At Lucie Mé we specialise in the most advanced non-surgical cosmetic and body contouring treatments, delivered by medically trained professionals. Two Toronto clinics: Yorkville at Holt Renfrew Centre, and Fairview Mall in North York. Established 2010. Complimentary consultations.

Treatment at Lucie Mé

What can I do about dark circles under my eyes in Toronto

Lucie Mé, established 2010, treats dark circles at two Toronto clinics, starting from which of the three causes is producing the darkness on your face. Dermal fillers from the Juvéderm family fill a tear trough hollow so the shadow has less to fall into. PRP, microneedling, Intensif RF microneedling and exosome therapy build the thickness and quality of thin eyelid skin. A medical-grade chemical peel works on surface pigment. Where a face carries two causes, the treatments run alongside each other at different depths.

The Yorkville clinic at Holt Renfrew Centre serves downtown Toronto, Bloor-Yorkville, Rosedale, The Annex and the central neighbourhoods. The Fairview Mall clinic in North York serves North York, Thornhill, Vaughan, Markham, Richmond Hill and the northern suburbs. Local filler pages are up for both: Yorkville and North York.

Consultations are complimentary at both clinics. The stretch test and the light test above get you most of the way; the rest is judged on the face.

Find us

Two Toronto clinics

Two Toronto clinics

Lucie Mé Yorkville

50 Bloor Street West, Unit C10, Holt Renfrew Centre, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L8

(416) 637-7377

Two Toronto clinics

Lucie Mé Fairview Mall (North York)

CF Fairview Mall, 1800 Sheppard Avenue East, Toronto, Ontario, M2J 5A7

(416) 492-6111

Common questions

Questions about dark circles

Can dark circles under the eyes be removed permanently?

No, and the better question is how long each part of the result holds, because the three causes behave differently over time. Pigment can be cleared and then stays clear for as long as whatever produced it stays controlled, which means sunscreen on the eyelid, sunglasses, and treatment of any allergy or dermatitis that has you rubbing the area. Stop those and the melanin returns, because the cause never left. A tear trough filled with hyaluronic acid softens as your body breaks the gel down, and the hollow may have deepened a little in the meantime, since the fat thinning and the bone change carry on in the background. Topping up before the previous result has gone completely keeps a steadier baseline than letting it empty each time. Thin skin that shows the vessels behaves most like a long-term condition: PRP, microneedling, Intensif and exosome therapy improve it, and the improvement fades as the skin settles back toward its own baseline, so a maintenance session once or twice a year is part of the picture rather than a sign something failed. Someone who has cleared the pigment, filled the trough and keeps the skin in good condition is maintaining a result instead of hunting for one, and knows which of their own three causes to watch.

Does lack of sleep cause dark circles under the eyes?

Sleep changes how visible dark circles are without being the thing that makes them. The measured version comes from a 2013 study in which 40 observers rated photographs of ten people taken after a normal night and again after five hours of sleep followed by 31 hours awake, and the sleep-deprived faces were rated as having darker circles under the eyes and paler skin. Both of those changes have the same result: paler skin lets the vessels and muscle underneath read through more strongly, and fluid settles differently around the eye after a short night, which deepens the tear trough and adds a shadow. Both of them change back once you have slept. What sleep cannot do is remove melanin from eyelid skin or put volume back along the rim of the eye socket. This is why people who fix their sleep and find the circles still there decide nothing works: what they were seeing at its worst was tiredness sitting on top of pigment or on top of a hollow, and only the top layer moved. Judge your own under-eye area after a few good nights, in daylight, with your head level and your face relaxed. That is your actual baseline. If the darkness goes completely when you are rested, you have a fluid and circulation pattern rather than pigment or a hollow, and sleep, a raised head and allergy control are the whole treatment.

Does filler work for dark circles under the eyes?

Filler answers one of the three causes and does nothing for the other two. Where the darkness is a shadow cast by a hollow tear trough, hyaluronic acid filler placed deep against the bony rim of the socket lifts the floor of that groove, less light pools there, and the change shows the same day and settles over the following weeks. Where the darkness is melanin, filler changes nothing, and the reviews are explicit that hyaluronic acid cannot change the colour of the skin itself, although reducing the hollow still lightens how the area reads. Where the skin is thin and the vessels are showing, the depth of the placement matters most, because gel put too close to the surface in skin under a millimetre thick can show as small bumps or as a bluish tone from light scattering in the gel. That is why the product goes in deep and in small amounts. If a result is not what you wanted, hyaluronic acid can be dissolved with an injection of hyaluronidase. Large, pronounced bags of fat are a different problem: they are hard to correct without eyelid surgery, which Lucie Mé does not offer, and filler is not the answer to them.

Do eye creams work for dark circles?

An eye cream can shift colour and skin quality over months and cannot fill a hollow, so what it does for you depends entirely on which cause you have. On pigment, a retinoid has the clearest basis: retinoids inhibit melanosome transfer and help disperse melanin, they are used for exactly this kind of post-inflammatory pigmentation, and DermNet says improvement may take 12 weeks or longer. The same page notes retinoids can irritate skin applied close to the eyes, so low strength, a small amount and a slow build are sensible around the eye. Vitamin C is a cofactor for collagen synthesis and an antioxidant, and niacinamide also inhibits melanosome transfer. Caffeine, which is in most eye products sold for dark circles, narrows small vessels and has one small positive study behind it: a 3% caffeine pad used for a month reduced periorbital pigmentation in 11 healthy women. The review reporting that also says the lack of clinical trials aimed specifically at eye creams and periorbital skin is a notable limitation, which is a fair description of the whole category. What no cream reaches is the fat and bone that produce a tear trough shadow, so a cream bought for a hollow will not work however long you use it or whatever it cost. Give anything you start three months before you judge it, in daylight, against a photograph taken the day you began.

What does dark circle treatment cost in Toronto?

Cost follows the cause, which is why a figure quoted before anyone has looked at your face would be a guess rather than a quote. A tear trough hollow is priced by how much filler the area takes, and that depends on how much volume has gone, which cannot be read from a photograph or a description. Pigment is usually a course of peels rather than one appointment, so the total follows the number of sessions. Skin quality work with PRP, microneedling, Intensif or exosome therapy is also a course, typically three sessions four to six weeks apart for skin. Someone whose circles are almost all pigment is looking at a different shape of cost from someone whose circles are almost all shadow, and a face carrying two causes needs two lines of treatment, which changes the arithmetic again. How long each result holds belongs in the comparison as well, since a treatment lasting a year and a course needing a top-up at six months cost different amounts over the same stretch of time even when a single session is priced alike. The complimentary consultation at either clinic is where the cause is established and the plan and its cost are set out for your own face. Doing the stretch test and the light test before you come makes that conversation faster and more useful.

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Both Lucie Mé clinics are in Toronto, in Yorkville and at Fairview Mall.