Lucie Mé · Concerns

Dehydrated Skin

Skin short of water feels tight and looks dull, and that is a different problem from skin short of oil.

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What is dehydrated skin, and what causes it?

What causes it

What is dehydrated skin, and what causes it?

Your face feels tight within a minute of being towelled dry, make-up sits differently than it did in summer, and nothing you put on seems to stay.

Dehydrated skin is skin that has lost water. Dry skin is skin that produces too little oil. The two feel similar and get treated as one thing, and the products bought for one do nothing for the other.

The outer layer of skin holds its water in with a barrier made of dead cells packed in a mix of lipids, including ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. When that barrier is intact, water from the layers below stays where it belongs. When it is damaged, water passes out through the surface faster than it can be replaced, and the skin above goes flat and tight. The term for that loss is transepidermal water loss, and almost everything that causes dehydrated skin causes it by damaging the barrier.

Dehydrated skin feels tight after cleansing, looks dull because flat surface cells scatter light rather than reflecting it, shows fine lines more sharply, and can be flaky and oily at the same time, which is the part that confuses people. Oily skin can be dehydrated. The oil glands are working; the barrier is not holding water.

Dry skin, by contrast, is a skin type. Those glands produce less oil than average, the condition is lifelong rather than a phase, and it gets worse with age as oil production falls further. Dry skin can also be dehydrated, which is the combination that feels worst in a Toronto February.

Age works on both. Oil production falls, the barrier repairs itself more slowly, and the skin's own store of hyaluronic acid, the molecule that holds water in the deeper layers, declines along with collagen.

Why it happens when it does

Why does skin get dehydrated?

Most dehydrated skin is caused by something being done to it, which is better news than it sounds, because a cause can be removed.

Over-cleansing comes first. Foaming cleansers that leave the skin feeling squeaky have stripped the lipids holding water in, and twice-daily use of a strong one keeps the barrier from rebuilding. Hot water does the same, which is why long hot showers in winter leave skin tight.

Actives used too often or stacked together are the next cause. Retinoids, glycolic and salicylic acids, vitamin C and exfoliating scrubs all have a place, and all of them disturb the barrier while they work. Three of them on the same evening disturb it faster than it can repair, and the result reads as sensitivity: stinging, redness, tightness.

Climate accounts for the rest in this city. Cold outdoor air holds little moisture, indoor heating holds less, and the difference between the two pulls water out of the skin all winter. Wind strips the surface directly. Air conditioning does the same in summer. A long flight is a few hours in air drier than a desert.

Alcohol and caffeine act as diuretics and reduce how much water the body has to spare. Illness with fever or a stomach upset does it faster. Some medicines dry skin as a side effect.

Age lowers the baseline, as oil production falls and barrier repair slows. Anyone with eczema, rosacea or a barrier that is already compromised dehydrates sooner than someone whose barrier is intact.

What can I do about dehydrated skin myself?

What you can do

What can I do about dehydrated skin myself?

Changing what you take away matters more than what you add. A barrier that keeps getting stripped cannot be fixed with a richer cream applied over the top.

Swap a foaming cleanser for a cream or milk cleanser, wash in lukewarm water, and cleanse once a day rather than twice if your skin feels tight by evening. The American Academy of Dermatology sets out the measures that relieve dry and dehydrated skin, and shorter, cooler showers belong on that list.

Cut actives back to one at a time and give the skin a fortnight before adding another. Stop exfoliating scrubs entirely while the skin feels tight.

Then build the barrier back. Humectants, hyaluronic acid and glycerin, hold water in the surface layers, and they work best applied to slightly damp skin with a moisturiser over the top to stop that water evaporating straight off. Ceramides replace the lipids the barrier is made of. An occlusive layer at night, something heavier over the top of everything else, holds the lot in place while the skin repairs.

A humidifier in a heated bedroom through winter changes the air the skin spends eight hours in. Sunscreen still matters, because ultraviolet damage impairs barrier function along with everything else.

Drinking more water helps a body that is actually short of water, and does little for skin that is losing it through a damaged barrier. The fix is holding water in, not pouring more through.

Talk to us

Would you like to talk to a Lucie Mé specialist about dehydrated skin?

A complimentary consultation at Yorkville or Fairview Mall.

Treatment

How is dehydrated skin treated?

Treatment works by putting water into the skin and improving how well the skin holds it, rather than by sitting on the surface.

Hydrating facials cleanse without stripping, exfoliate gently, and finish with hydrating preparations worked into skin that has been prepared to take them. SilkPeel dermalinfusion does that in one step: it exfoliates and delivers a serum into the skin at the same time, so the hydration goes in rather than on. OxyGeneo exfoliates, infuses and oxygenates the skin in a single treatment.

MesoGold is mesotherapy with a 24k gold-plated device, and the serum channelled into the skin can include hyaluronic acid along with vitamin-rich mesotherapy preparations and peptides.

Skin boosters go further in. Micro-injections of hyaluronic acid are placed into the skin itself, which raises its water-holding capacity from the inside rather than from the surface. The effect is on hydration and skin quality rather than on contour, which is what separates a booster from a filler.

Microneedling and Intensif RF microneedling build collagen and improve the thickness and quality of the skin, which improves how well it holds water over a course of sessions.

None of these is a substitute for repairing what is stripping the barrier at home. A course of treatment on skin that is being over-cleansed every morning will lose.

Alongside treatment

Which products help dehydrated skin?

Which products help dehydrated skin?

HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator, SkinMedica

A hyaluronic acid hydrator for the surface layers. Apply to slightly damp skin and seal it with a moisturiser, or the water it holds evaporates off.

Which products help dehydrated skin?

Ultimage Hydrating Gel with Hyaluronic Acid, Vivier

A light hyaluronic acid gel that suits skin that is dehydrated and oily at the same time, where a heavy cream feels wrong.

Which products help dehydrated skin?

Hydration Boosting Cream

The layer that goes over a humectant to hold the water in place. Without it the water a humectant holds evaporates straight off.

Which products help dehydrated skin?

Intensive Moisture Balance, Dermalogica

A richer moisturiser for skin that is dry as well as dehydrated, which is the usual combination through a Toronto winter.

Lucie Mé

Restore. Rejuvenate. Enhance.

At Lucie Mé we specialise in the most advanced non-surgical cosmetic and body contouring treatments, delivered by medically trained professionals. Two Toronto clinics: Yorkville at Holt Renfrew Centre, and Fairview Mall in North York. Established 2010. Complimentary consultations.

Treatment at Lucie Mé

How to treat dehydrated skin at Lucie Mé in Toronto

Lucie Mé, established 2010, treats dehydrated skin at both Toronto clinics. Facials cleanse and hydrate without stripping the barrier. SilkPeel dermalinfusion exfoliates and delivers a serum into the skin in one step, and OxyGeneo exfoliates, infuses and oxygenates. MesoGold channels hyaluronic acid and mesotherapy preparations into the skin through a gold-plated device. Skin boosters place micro-injections of hyaluronic acid into the skin itself, and microneedling and Intensif improve its thickness and quality over a course.

The Yorkville clinic at Holt Renfrew Centre serves downtown Toronto, Bloor-Yorkville, Rosedale, The Annex and the central neighbourhoods. The Fairview Mall clinic in North York serves North York, Thornhill, Vaughan, Markham, Richmond Hill and the northern suburbs. Local facial pages are up for both: Yorkville and North York.

Consultations are complimentary at both clinics. Book with whichever is closer.

Find us

Two Toronto clinics

Two Toronto clinics

Lucie Mé Yorkville

50 Bloor Street West, Unit C10, Holt Renfrew Centre, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L8

(416) 637-7377

Two Toronto clinics

Lucie Mé Fairview Mall (North York)

CF Fairview Mall, 1800 Sheppard Avenue East, Toronto, Ontario, M2J 5A7

(416) 492-6111

Common questions

Questions about dehydrated skin

How do I know if my skin is dehydrated or dry?

Dry skin produces too little oil and dehydrated skin has lost water, and the quickest way to tell them apart is to notice when the discomfort arrives. Skin that feels tight straight after cleansing, looks dull by the afternoon and shows fine lines more sharply than it did last month is dehydrated, and that can happen to any skin type including oily skin. Skin that has always been flaky, rough and tight regardless of what you use, and gets worse every winter of your life, is dry as a type. The confusing combination is skin that is oily in the T-zone and tight everywhere, which is a damaged barrier on oily skin rather than two skin types fighting. Press a finger to your cheek and release: skin that is slow to settle back and looks crepey while it does is short of water. Another clue is that dehydrated skin changes with what you do to it, better on a week of gentle cleansing, worse after a weekend of strong actives, while dry skin stays dry whatever happens. Both at once is common enough, and then the water and the oil both need addressing, and the order matters less than stopping whatever is stripping the barrier.

Does drinking more water fix dehydrated skin?

It helps if you are genuinely short of water, and it does very little if your skin is losing water through a damaged barrier, which is the usual cause. The skin holds its water in with a barrier of dead surface cells packed in lipids, and when that barrier is stripped by over-cleansing, hot water, wind or too many actives, water passes out through the surface faster than the body can replace it. Pouring more water in at the bottom does not patch a hole at the top. What does patch it is holding water in: a humectant such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin applied to damp skin, a moisturiser over it to stop that water evaporating, and ceramides to replace the lipids that have gone. Stopping the stripping matters as much, so a gentler cleanser and cooler water change more than an extra litre a day. Dehydration from illness, alcohol or a long flight is real and drinking more does help there. For everyday tight, dull skin in a heated Toronto apartment, the barrier is the thing to fix. If you want one measurement, notice whether your face feels tight within a minute of being towelled dry. That tightness is water leaving through the surface, and it answers the question faster than counting glasses does.

Can treatment help if my skin feels tight and sensitive right now?

Yes, and the plan starts by taking things away rather than adding them. Skin that stings when products go on has a barrier that is not holding water or keeping irritants out, so the first move is stopping exfoliating scrubs and cutting back to one active at a time, with a cream cleanser and lukewarm water. A hydrating facial is gentle enough to use on skin in that state, because it cleanses without stripping and finishes with hydrating preparations worked into prepared skin. SilkPeel dermalinfusion and OxyGeneo both deliver hydration into the skin in the same treatment as the exfoliation, which suits skin that cannot tolerate a separate scrub. What is not sensible on actively irritated skin is a strong peel or an aggressive course aimed at something else, and a practitioner looking at your skin will say so rather than sell you one. Skin boosters and microneedling both suit skin that holds water badly, and both are better started once the surface has calmed. The assessment at the consultation is about sequence as much as about which treatment. None of it has to happen in one appointment either, and skin that stings today can tolerate far more in three weeks with the cleanser changed and the actives pulled back to one.

What does treatment for dehydrated skin cost in Toronto?

Cost depends on which treatment suits your skin and whether you want a single appointment or a course, so a figure before an assessment would be a guess. Facials, SilkPeel dermalinfusion and OxyGeneo are priced per treatment, and they hold the skin in condition rather than fixing it once. MesoGold is priced per treatment as well. Skin boosters are priced by the product used and are placed across a short series rather than in one visit. Microneedling and Intensif are priced by session and by course, because collagen builds over a series. Someone whose skin is dehydrated from over-cleansing may need nothing beyond a change of routine and one treatment to reset it, which is the cheapest outcome and the one to test first. The complimentary consultation is where that gets decided, including when the honest answer is that your home routine is the whole problem. Products are a separate cost and the part that keeps any result in place through a winter. A course costs more than a single treatment and does more, and the comparison to make is against what you already spend on products that are not holding the result. The consultation is also where a product routine gets simplified, which sometimes lowers that spend rather than adding to it.

Why does my skin get worse every winter in Toronto?

Cold outdoor air holds very little moisture, indoor heating holds less again, and the gap between the two pulls water out of the skin for months. Every time you move between them the skin loses more, and wind strips the surface directly on top of that. Hot showers, which feel necessary in January, remove the lipids that hold water in, and the drier the air the more that matters. The result is barrier damage that builds through the season rather than arriving on one bad day, which is why skin that coped in October feels tight by December. The measures that work are unglamorous: cooler and shorter showers, a cream cleanser instead of a foaming one, a humidifier in the bedroom, a heavier moisturiser at night and a scarf across the face in wind. Actives need pulling back for the season, since skin repairing barrier damage tolerates less than it did in September. Treatment that puts hydration into the skin rather than onto it does more at this time of year, which is why facials, dermalinfusion and skin boosters suit a Toronto winter. The pattern repeats every year, so put whatever worked last February back in the routine in November rather than waiting for the skin to complain again.

Get started

Book a complimentary consultation for dehydrated skin

Both Lucie Mé clinics are in Toronto, in Yorkville and at Fairview Mall.